Help! 09 JK Rubi Unl. Transfer case shift linkage keeps coming apart.

Bad problem: Transfer case shift linkage has come apart TWICE.  Dangerous and could leave me stranded. (I am a solo Jeeper).  Mods: Black Diamond 3" JK lift,TERRAFLEX CV drive shafts. Have not seen this problem mentioned on the forums nor in the Magazines.  Please help.  

got pictures....

from several angles... and a piece of tape as an indicator where it comes apart at??

use photobucket to upload pictures to.  

After I lifted my XJ, the shifter for the transfer case would bind up.  It was attached to both the transfer case and to the body of the vehicle.  I ended up fabricating a ball joint based linkage that is a direct connection to the transfer case without relying on the body for support.  Works great so far.

Don't know if the JK has a similar arrangement.  If so you might look into something similar.  
Steve  M.

2000 XJ
1983 CJ8 (in progress project)

Sorry, no photos. There is a round collar, at the end of a short cable, that goes over a short post on the linkage arm to the transfer case - it is coming apart at the collar/post.  Service tech questioned that upper cardan flex component of TERAFLEX CV drive line could be hitting this linkage at extreme flex angle???

Lift kit is a suspension life - so angle of connection between shift lever/linkage/transfer case has not changed. One suggextion was to put a "tie-wrap" around the collar to post connection - - but that does not sould like a valid fix.  This area is VERY difficult to access (from underneath vehicle) - - Can this linkage be accessed from above by pulling out shift lever and consul??

Thanks in advance for any ideas.  

Please - - am I the only Jeeper with this problem with my JK??  It appears that the upper Cardon joint on the rear drife shaft is hitting and tearing apart the shift linkage to my transfer case.  Has ahppened twice.  Occurs on steep ascents with tight switch-back turns. I fear that the linkage will be slightly damaged until I try to shift and then the linkage will come apart with the transfer case in NEUTRAL and I will be in TROUBLE.

PLEASE HELP!  

is this the problem part..



seems somebody used this bushing to replace the plastic one..





but you said its at the transfer case...  

it might not be that no body else has the problem.. . it might be that they just have not see this post..  yet..








looks like you are going to need to drill the lever pin to allow you to use a cotter pin... and find something to make an inner bushing..

a truly creative person might order up a spare linkage.. take it to a machine shop.. have them create a slightly longer pin for it to be installed so you can use a standard gear shift linkage retaining CLIP.. one that looks like a long hand E.. .. look at the hurst shifter bushing kits at almost every speed shop... they are also used on millions of cars to hold the shift linkage together ..  

looks like the transfer case shift lever is only about 10 bucks at jeep..

please take your vin to the dealer to be sure to order the proper spare part...

this might be the part number.

68001926AA




OTE: Refer To All Proper Tag Numbers And Stamping Numbers Before Ordering Transfer Cases And/Or Transfer Case Parts.

Sales Codes:
[DBB] = All Manual Transmissions
[DEH] = 6-Speed Manual NSG370 Transmission

[DGQ] = 5-Speed Automatic 545RFE Transmission
[DGV] = 4-Speed Automatic VLP 42RLE Transmission
[DG0] = All Automatic Transmissions

[DHE] = Manual Shift On The Fly NVG 241 Generation II Transfer Case
[DHW] = 4:1 Rock-Trac H.D. Part Time 4WD NVG 241 Transfer Case
[EGT] = 3.8L V-6 SMPI Engine [EG0] = All V-6 Engines

[ENS] = 2.8L 4 Cylinder Turbo Diesel Next Generation
[EN0] = All Turbo Diesel Engines [NAA] = Federal Emissions

[NAE] = California Emissions
[NAS] = 50 State Emissions
[NA1] = Export Emissions

[XEF] = Transfer Case Skid Plate Sheild  

there is actually enough room behind it.. that you might be able to have a machine shop knock the pin from the NEW part...   drill and tap the hole for a threaded bolt...   have them.. stick the bolt in their lathe..   leave only 0.300" of threads under the head of the bolt.. so you can thread it through from the back...   neck the threaded end down for your new bushing.. and have them cross drill it.. so you can put a cotter pin or a shift linkage clip through it..