Mopar 5.2 swap help

I'm swapping a 1992 5.2 MPFI Magnum from a truck into my 1992 YJ that originally had a 2.5.
I'm keeping the AX15/231 that I swapped in a few years ago, using a Dakota 3.9 bellhousing.
The engine is in, bolted down and the harness is mostly spliced in.
I'm having issues with my fuel pump.
I've been staring at the FSM's for the Dodge and Jeep for the last few days, and am pretty sure I have everything where it needs to be.
However, my fuel pump isn't energizing.
If anybody has done this swap, can you give me a hand?
Thanks!  

is the pump good  
Using the gas your hybrid saves!!

Well, when I pulled the 2.5 out a month ago, it was running just fine.  

Got the fuel pump to energize.  

Hi,  I just did a swap like this also.  I put a 95 5.9 in a FSJ so if you need any other help just ask.  Mine runs great and I would recommend a swap like this to anywone wanting to go to EFI.  

Current issue now, is no spark.
I have a new crank position sensor for the manual trans.
I verified that the distributor is timed to the cam position sensor on TDC.
Coolant temp sensor is new.
All sensors are plugged in.
I am not getting any spark from the coil, but the injectors are also not pulsing. I just checked with a noid light.
My first thought is ASD relay.
I integrated the Dodge PCM into my YJ PDC as follows:
Pin 51 is tied into the coil side of both ASD/FP relays (orange/green).
When voltage is applied from the ignition (white/yellow) it allows the relays to ground via the PCM. This is working because the fuel pump only energizes w/the PCM attached.
Pin 3 on my PCM is hot from battery (pink/yellow). This ties into the PDC, and both of the ASD and fuel pump relays.
The ignition (white/yellow) is tied into the main 5.2 harness (dark blue). This splices out and goes to Pin 9 on the PCM and the diagnostic connector, purge solenoid, trans wiring.
The other side of the ASD relay (dark green/black) gets tied to the main 5.2 harness (dark green/orange) to the injectors, sensors, etc.

Anybody have any suggestions?
I cranked it over and then pulled codes.
I'm getting:
11 No reference signal during cranking
and a few a/c and auto trans (both deleted) codes.

No reference signal means no cam position signal.
This part is not new.
Will a bad cam sensor prevent the engine from sending spark and injector pulses?  

I will pull out my schematics this weekend and have a look. My first thought is that the ASD relay is not tied to a hot when cranking voltage. You can test this by running a wire from the Batt. to the ASD temporarly just to see if you get spark and injector pulse. With the key ON you should be able to hear the click when you apply the Batt. jumper tothe ASD relay. Since you are getting FP it does appear that the relay is working, just maybe not during the cranking cycle.  

My schematics may not help since I am using a 95 wiring diagram, but I still think you are missing the main power to feed your Auto Shut Down relay.  Mine used a Gray/White wire going to a 30A fuse and needs to be Hot At All Times. I think it was tied into the fuse block in the cab.
You are right in that the Dark Green/Orange feeds the Injectors and Coil and also goes to the PCM  

My ASD and fuel pump relays both have the coils powered by the ignition hot wire, and grounded by the PCM. I verified that this wire is staying hot, but the relay goes dead after about 1 second in the run position. Likewise, it is hot in the crank position for about 1 second.  

Yes the coil side should be powered by the ignition hot side and grounded by the PCM, but the power feed side to the relay (switch side) needs to be hot always. Mine goes to BATT.  What color wire is your power feed to the ASD?  

My relays are fed by the battery, pink/yellow.
I didn't change anything from the PDC, back.  

It would appear that you have it hooked up correctly.  I'm sure you have but make sure everything is well grounded.  I tied all my grounds together (there are a lot) and screwed them down to the fender. Other than that are you sure the PCM was good?
I don't know that the cam sensor would keep it from firing but it may.  I will unplug mine and see what happens.  

Found it! Pin 4 (black/light blue) was not tied into the harness from the crank sensor...very strange. It was routed to the rear harness (trans, TC, etc.) but not back up front.
Got lots of spark now!
Thanks everybody!  

Good to hear!  I found out that it will not fire with the cam sensor unpugged, just in case you were still wondering!
I spent my weekend tracking down why my dash lights fuse was blowing. Turned out to be a rear marker light corroded.  

well........hows it run?  
*******91yj 4.0, ax15, quarter of a million mile club********