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cathead12
New User
| Posts: 2
| Joined: 02/06
Posted: 02/18/06 07:51 AM
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i have a stock tj with a30 up front and a 35 in the back i run 31 in tires i am not going to be doing hardcore wheeling i use my tj mainly for hunting and the occasional offroading iwill not be playing on rocks i want to put lockers like the powertrax lockright in the front and rear iam wondering if the axels can handle it i have to climb slick red clay hills and need the extra traction irun 31 in TSL'S
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Groo
Enthusiast
| Posts: 723
| Joined: 10/05
Posted: 02/18/06 12:17 PM
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don't put a locker in the front, there is no way to disengage the axle, it is spinning full time. you might consider a tru trac or a selectable locker
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Posted: 02/19/06 03:45 PM
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I've got truetracs front and rear and they make a real difference for traction in most circumstances. If one side does start to slip, a bit of judiciously applied brake does the trick. Lockers, especially up front, won't be good for street and highway use (there'll be disagreeement with this, but if you are moving along at 75 and need to swerve quickly, it can get scary, or unmanageable, instantly. Remember, everything's easy when things are going smoothly, but theres a lot of times when smoothly doesn't apply.); you can't get anything other than ARB for the 30. By that time you are up to real money. Most importantly, if it's red slick mud on a hill, it's traction you need, both wheels slipping at the same rate still won't get you moving. There is a really good low-tech answer though - snow chains.
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Posted: 02/20/06 05:16 AM
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Wouldn't hub conversions free up the axle for the locker and at the same time increase mileage?
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Posted: 02/20/06 05:17 AM
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There isn't an Ox avail for the 30?
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Groo
Enthusiast
| Posts: 723
| Joined: 10/05
Posted: 02/20/06 07:42 AM
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a hub conversion might save fuel in theory, but neve enough to justify the initial expense. I've never heard of anyone say they even noticed a difference on a TJ. a selectable locker is much less the a hub conversion and a locker
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Posted: 02/20/06 04:59 PM
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There wasn't a few months ago, but could be now. There's a lot of talk generally that a standard 30 isn't strong enough for a locker if it's really pushed. Depends how you drive, I guess.
Speaking of hub conversions, one of the other good thing about full floaters is just that - bust an axle, or a diff, and you can still drive home after a bit of work. I used to drive 11 and 111 series landrovers, with their notoriously weak axles, and I can't say how often one would go. OK, mostly because we ran old shafts and diffs that were worn, and could wind up a fair bit of torque from their 48:1 final drive before lumping it onto the axles, even from a 2.25 or 2.6l donk; wheels were tall 16", knobbly with lotsa grip and so fought back. I mean at that stage you were already usually not going anywhere at maybe 30:1, so dropped to granny and powered it. When you think about it, the whole enginerering thing was a general mess. If I didn't have a spare axle (which I took to carrying; floater axles also take up less room) then it was just a matter of pulling out the axles to stop the diff turning if that was the broken end, which it was most often. Disconnect the driveshaft and wire it to the chassis, and tootle off home; didn't matter which end went. You didn't even have to take a wheel off, no jacking up, all simple. Well, pulling out the stuck axle could be interesting at timesl.
Edited 2/20/2006 5:00 pm by pemburung (pemburun1)
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hivolt
New User
| Posts: 3
| Joined: 02/06
Posted: 02/27/06 11:58 PM
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I have run the stock 30 in the front of my TJ for nearly 6 years now w/ ARB and 36 TSL's. I put the Superior Super 35 in the rear and had a Detroit then an OX then an ARB then back to the Detroit and now the OX w/ the improvements I recommended. The OX is holding up and the ARB is in pieces. The Detroit is the freezer for an emergency.
I've NEVER broke anything in the front end but the rear......2 destroyed lockers and two ring gears. The ring gears were from my 19 yr.
MOST important is to up grade your rear with either the Superior Super 35 OR spend the jack and get an after market D44. Coast has a deal on the thin tubed Rubicon axle w/ 33 spline Alloys and ARB for around $2500. If you buy from them, TELL THEM TO DRILL THE DRAIN HOLES FOR THE TUBES! The ARB's tapered bearings will pump all the oil into the tubes and it has no way to drain back.
Go with the 4:88's so you're set for the 35's you will get in a couple of years.
Do it once so do it right.
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