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I haven't worked on an M715 but it's similar to an older J-truck without power steering. A GM power box from almost any '60s, '70s, or '80s car (I prefer a Camaro) will bolt up to the 3 mounting holes. You can add a fourth and then you'll need to reinforce the whole bracket. Tie rod or Pitman arm will need to be modified so they all fit together properly. With 44s and hard wheeling I'd recommend a ram assist. You'll need to get a pump on the engine too. Here's some information you can find at m715zone.com:
Power Steering Conversion
The following are posts we have received from club members.
Does anyone know how to put power steering on the M-715?
Midway Supply in Irving Texas, has done over 400 M715 rebuild for fire dept.'s. They say that a gm car saginaw box bolts right on, and sells a lengthened pitman arm so you keep steering lock. A freind of mine did the box without the arm, and steering lock was very limited.
The Saginaw box off of any G. M. full size vehicle from aprox. 1969 to 1976 will bolt on with no modifications. ( Monte Carlo, Chevelle, Cutlass, etc.) I used a 72 chevelle box. You have to use the G. M. rag joint. You can get the pitman arm from Leo Porter in Midway Texas. The arm is slightly shorter, increasing the turn radius. (6.5") Some Jeep vehicles used this same Saginaw box. A Wagoneer pitman arm might work and is .5" longer. Good luck and have fun.
Do not try to use the original pitman arm!!!! The original arm has a larger tapered opening which will not properly enguage the steering box. Use a G. M. pitman arm that fits the Saginaw Box.
Is Leo Porter of Midway Supply still in business? I bought several items from him about two years ago (at very good prices) and he said that he was going out of business then. He is the one who told me about the Saginaw boxes but stressed they must be from a CAR and he also sold me a modified pitman arm.
I swapped in GM 1-ton Dana 60 front axle with stock Bendix disc brakes, 4.56 R&P, with stock M715 springs mounted atop the axles, "crossover steering" using a custom steering arm from Dynatrac, Superlift 3" GM steering block, custom chromoly steel drag-link with stock-type Jeep full-size tie-rod ends
- swapped in GM 1-ton Corp. 10.5" 14-bolt rear axle with rear disc brakes (using TSM brackets, Cadillac calipers & GM 3/4-ton front rotors),4.56 R&P, stock M715 springs.
- Power Steering using box, pitman, intermediate shaft and tilt-column from a '74 Cherokee (the box is a bolt-in, the new steering column requires mods to the firewall and dashboard and the use of the Cherokees pedal/column support bracket--I actually had a portion of the Cherokee's firewall torched out and welded into my M715).
The following is from Drew, who changed his axles to GM Dana 60 in front and GM corporate 14 bolt in the rear. See the axle section for tech on the axle swaps.
I converted to powersteering using the 70"s and 80's full size Jeep truck parts, here are the details.
The power steering box & pitman arm came from a '74 Cherokee and was a direct-bolt in, although it's a tight fit next to the frame brace (a box from any '74 to '91 full-size Jeep should fit). Jeep trucks used a standard GM Saginaw pump unit, which came stock on many Jeep and most GM engines (and even some Fords!) so engine mounting brackets should not be a problem. I used a Ford PS pump because it came with the 460 engine and modified a Ford F350 high-pressure hose by removing the fitting at the steering box end and crimping on a flare fitting to match the GM box. The intermediate shaft and steering column also were donated by the '74 Cherokee. As I detailed in a previous post, use of the late-model column required firewall mods and support bracketry from the donor vehicle.
I almost forgot, with regards to the steering setup I also used a standard Superlift 3" GM steering block between the top of the right steering knuckle and the Dynatrac steering arm. This results in a nearly flat draglink to eliminate bump-steer. I also used Grade-8 studs and conical lockwashers from Dynatrac that fit into the tapered bolt holes on the steering arm. The balljoint cap (that would normally be on the right side in a GM truck) was bolted to the top of the left knuckle where the GM steering arm would normally be.
Good luck,
John
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