I have a '81 CJ5 with a rusted tub (go figure!). The frame and motor is all rebuilt. I am now doing the tub. I have cut the sides out and welded in some sheet metal. I had to cut out the rusted posts too. I have fabricated new posts which made things alot stonger.

I am looking for any tips or ideas from anyone that has done the same.

I'm too cheap to buy a new body!

Note; Running a rebuilt 401. Dana 300, etc...

Use a bunch of bondo and chewing gum. You are probably a drunk, toothless redneck, you won't beable to tell the difference.  

Dear Mr. (or Mrs) THEREALSAMPL,

Thank you so much for your input to my question.

I have been quite able to do all modifications, machining, design, and fabrications myself for the last 35 years but I thought it might be fun to see if someone had some input. I have learned over the years that there are many right ways to do things and only a few wrong ways.

My only hope is that the majority of people reading and using this web site have a genuine interest in learning more about the use of off-road vehicles and how to have fun with them.

By the way... I am not a drunk, I have all my teeth.

YOU HAVE A GREAT DAY MR. (or Mrs.) THEREASAMPL

Well said 4jeepslater.  

He's just a worthless troll ignore him.  

Whats up? I have recently done a body off frame resto/mod and after all the body work I had the tub Arma Lined inside and underside. This should keep the tub rock solid from any future rust. I also used urethane (from a windshield shop) to seal all of the seams, (especially the firewall to floorboard seam) before the Arma lining went on. I also picked the Arma liner over the Rhino liner due to the fact that the Arma liner is sprayed at around 200 degrees  (the Rhino is cold spray) and weeps into the body seams a lot nicer. Good luck on your rig!  

Thanks for the ideas!

I like the idea of a hot liner.

What is the urethane product you mentioned and how is it applied?

By the way...Thanks to PeteBarton & JEEPBOYBEN. That guy is a real jerk.

4JEEPSLATER

4jeepslater dude, the product I used is: Essex U-418, Quick cure primerless auto glass urethane adhesive. Its made by DOW. You can apply it with a small tube caulk gun and then smooth it out with your finger. (Wear latex or nitrile gloves). The stuff rocks and can be used to touch up or seal any holes/seams before and after the liner is sprayed on. Good luck.  

I had an old CJ-2A (1949) I rolled it several times and had several areas with body rot. I fixed it with what I thought was a temporary, quick fix. I went to a boat store bought a few yars of fiberglass clothe and about 3 gallons of fiberglass resin. After removing the seats I fibergallassed the complete interior. After the fiberglass dried and hardened I the used Bondo on the worst of the exterior surfaces.  What I ended up with was a tub that rattled less was waterproofed and a lot sturdier. The work only took about 3 days and the finished product was very presentable.  The added weight of the fiberglass was insignificant.  As a bonus the insulating properties of the fiberglass coating seemed to lower the internal heat from the engine,transmission and exhaust system. Needless to say I never got around to replacing the tub and what was temporary became permanent, it turned out so well.

Rick