I have a 1996 Cherokee with 4.0L & Auto Tran. I parked it and the next day it would not start. The facts: Battery is good, the starter turns over fine. There is no spark or fuel pressure. The ASD contacts do not close. The fuel pump contacts do not close. The Check Engine Light never lights up and the bulb is good. I cannot download any troubleshooting codes from the OBD and it registers "FAIL" every time. Thereis  12 volts to the PCM, ASD solenoid, fuel pump solenoid and 1 side of the ASD and fuel pump contacts only. There is no voltage to the fuel injectors. If I manually jumper the fuel pump contacts the fuel pump will pump 48 psi (+/-). The PCM is grounded and the the wires from the PCM that go to ground are good. The PCM was believed to be the problem and was replaced with OEM euipment.
Is there a reset button somewhere? Does the fuel pump somehow control the PCM grounds contacts or low voltage outputs?
I need some help here....the Jeep dealer mechanics just told me I ought to bring it in. Let's hear it guys...what's an old fart to do? Thanks.  

just a thought, and i'm not sure how it applies to your jeep ... but i think there might be an impact sensor that would shut down the fuel system.  this happened to a friend.  all he did was forget to shut the engine off before letting out the clutch when parking.  that was enough of an impact to trip the fuel system shut off.

Don't know if it'll help, butcha never know.

Pete

at this point you may need to bring it in, the dealer should be able to find whats wrong. Sounds like some sort of senser or whatever.

Thanks...I forgot about those sensors.
I know I won't take it in to be fixed....I did not keep this Cherokee to pay someone $75/hr to work on it.All I am looking for is some help with my logic.  

75 bucks an hour!! Wow these guys must be rich! LOL I'm glad i donotpay that much. Although somtimes it's cheaper and faster to take it to a gargae in the long run. gOOD LUCK.  

Is it fixed yet?? My buddy had the same problem and after a Friday Night and Saturday of testing voltage etc. etc. A mechanic we know said try the crank sensor, that was it.  Damn sensors!!

Good luck.

That is on the list for this weekend of tests. And with a little patience it will be running again. I thought I would check this site once more to see if there was any more helpful advice. Thanks.  

Let us know what it is. My buddy just ordered is lift for his XJ and a slip yoke eliminator and CV driveshaft. This is what him and I will be putting in his $2,200 92 XJ Limited lucky SOB. It should be fun. Heres the lift he ordered. I'll have to have him get on here and posts some pics.

	The RUBICON EXPRESS Cherokee XJ 4.5" suspension system is the kit of choice for those who use and abuse their Jeeps on the world's toughest trails. These kits are built to perform. We have designed these kits to increase wheel travel dramatically while maintaining excellent road handling. Kit includes 2 front coils, lower "Super-flex" control arms, upper chro-moly control arms, adjustable chro-moly track bar, sway bar disconnects, extended rear brake line, U-bolt kit, rear block kit, and full-length rear add-a-leaf. Recommended tire size is 32x11.50, 33x9.50, 33x10.5 or smaller. Note: the installation of a slip yoke eliminator and CV driveshaft is recommended. (Shocks are not included in this kit)

RE is a great company if you can aford them. What size tires he going to run?  

He's gonna run 31X10.5 MTRS. I'm trying to get him to go w/ 32s. Says for rims he's gonna get stock rubi rims off ebay. Alot of them already have the MTRs on them still so basicall for 700-900 he'll get the rims and tires which are already mounted and balanced to his door LOL so in that respect i think its a smart move 4 rims+4MTR tires=800 equals to about 100 bucks each. Not bad. He doesn't want to regear yet so thats also why he doesn't want to go bigger than 31s.

Don't ya'll wish that jeep had a rubicon package for KJs and WJs too. that would be sweet. 

ya 31's will look great on it and have room to stuff.  

After running several tests, the problem was the crankshaft sensor. BUT was not recognizeable immediately because it is wired in parallel to 3 other sensors (Engine Temp, Camshaft, and 1 other). When any of these were back tested they showed the same problem. The way I ended up finding it was checking for the 5 volts out of the PCM when each device was disconnected.

Take note...If you do not have 5 volts out of the PCM the "Check Engine" light will not work and you cannot read the PCM with a OBD II reader. At least on a 1996 XJ.

Thank you joejjeep.

YEPPERS. thats why when the crank goes it seems like theres more of a problem because of the "trickle down effect."  

If you have an auto trans you should also check the neutral safety switch.  It will cut out the fuel pump relay and power to the ignition if it is bad.  Try putting it in neutral to start.  If it does start then that's the problem.  

Ignore my last post to you.  I'm a blonde!!!