Stalls and dies

Ok, I got this 1966 Jeep Gladiator and when I first tried to get it home it ran good for about 1 mile then it would just stop running as soon as I stepped on the gas pedal, then after screaming and kicking it, it would run in idle, run as long as I was moving then it would stop running as soon as I stopped at a stop sign. I don't know much about Jeeps or vehicles for that matter. The idle seems to be where it is supposed to be, it doesn't chug when it is idling, so any clues on what is causing this weird running behavior? Maybe settlement in the gas line? troubles with the carb? I'm lost.  

It could be a million different things i had a prob in my 77 cj that sounds similar. it was a grounding problem sitting still its would run fine but the slightest vibration would send it sputtering and almost stalling. hope i could help.

Your problem seems to primarily a fuel problem. One hint is the stalling when trying to giv it gas. This would indicate an accelerator pump malfunction. To check it take off the air filter and look down the carburetor throat and with the engine off move the throttle horn. You should see a steady strong squirt in the primary (front bores). If not suspect that the internal accelerator pump is worn out. Your carburetor originally used a round piece of letter in a vertical bore which would force gas from the fuel bowl into injector ports located in the front throats. If upon closer inspection the leather is shriveled you will have to replace it. Carburetor rebuild kits include a new accelerator pump and it now uses a neoprene seal. Follow the instructions with the kit and install all of the new parts and rebuild the carburetor (If it is within your abilities).  Another possibility could be a fuel supply problem. Check that the float is set at the proper position. If the fuel is to low raising the float level will put more fuel into the float chamber.  Insufficient fuel supply could be another possibility.  Plugged filters could allow enough fuel to flow for idling but not enough for sustained running under load.  Look at the inlet of the carburetor. Remove the fuel line and then the brass fitting from the front of the cover. Within the brass fitting there should be either a paper fiber filter or a syntered brass filter. Remove the filter and blow through with your mouth air should flow freely with no resistance, if not replace it.  On some models there is no internal filter so trace the fuel line and you shoud find an inline filter between the carburetor and the fuel pump. remove it and blow through it as well. It to should have no restriction, if not replace it as well. A word of caution your vehicle might have both of the above filters.  Some fuel pumps had built in filters. If so a small removable bowl will be seen on the bottom. If so equipped remove the bowl by turning it counter clockwise or turning the thumb screw counter clockwise until it lets the bracket swing away. Be careful to not lose the neoprene or cork gasket.  run water through the fiber filter water should run freely through it, if not replace it. Besure to soak the filter in rubbing alchol to dry out the water before reinstalling it. With the primary coil wire removed from the distributor firmly grounded you place a vacuum/presure guage in the fuel line on the outlet side of the fuel pump and crank the engine If the pump is functioning you should see at least 4 to 5 lbs. of pressure(Check a shop manual for the exact specs.)  You also need to check delivery volume as well. (BE VERY CAREFUL HERE) With the fuel line removed from the carburetor place the removed line (use a short piece of fuel line if needed) in a 1 quart can or bottle and crank the engine, check a shop manual for the specifications, crank the engine for 5 seconds. Measure the amount of fuel pumped during the cranking ans multiply by 12. This will give you amount of fuel pumped per minute. If it is within specifications then your problem may be electrical.  If either of the 2 fuel pump tests failed , it still might not be the pump. Place a vacuum hose on the inlet side of the pump and once again crank the engine, check the specs and see if the vacuum developed is OK. If OK you need to follow the fuel line bnack to the fuel tank.  Check for other inline filters and replace them as well.  Also check for crimps or crushed fuel lines or even cracked lines. A fuel line may be above the level of the fuel in the tank but could suck air through a cracked or chafed area. If the fuel line looks OK you now have to check the filter in the tank.  At the bottom of the pickup tube is a cloth/fiber filter. Usually you need to remove the fuel tank to gain access. After dropping the tank use a brass bunch and strike the raised ears on the circular assembly in a counter clockwise direction and remove the gas guage sending unit/fuel pickup tube and remove the filter.  A short cut to verify that the fuel system is OK from the tank to the fuel pump is to place a 3 to 4 foot piece of fuel line at the fuel pump outlet into a small can and syphon gas into it the can or container should be below the gas tank. If fuel flows easily and in quantity the the fuel line is OK.  Since a lot of the work is done during the checking I usually replace all filters when ever I remove one. The filter usually come with new Fuel line clamps etc.  The cost is minimal and replacing with new ones is just a good move.

If you do all of the above and the problem is still there then Your problem is electrical. The procedures to check out for electrical are just as extensive. Briefly,  If you have a good spark at a plug and then at the coil you don't have an electrical problem although their are several areas that may cause intermitent failures, overheating coil, bad ballst resistor, bad condenser, faulty ignition switch etc.

Rick