I’ve been lurking on this and other jeep boards now for a couple of months trying to get a idea of  what to buy as a “fun” vehicle.  Thanks for all the info you all unknowingly gave me.  Sorry this is so long.  Two weeks ago I bought my first Jeep.  Now I have all sorts of questions.   First off  it is a ‘98  TJ,  Sport, 4.0l, auto, A./C, hardtop, aftermarket wheels with 31x10.50.   105k mi.  I wanted a 5sp, but  couldn’t find the right one in the right condition.   This week I added a transmission cooler and a new radiator (plastic original was leaking).  Then  I  installed a Procomp  2”  lift springs and shocks.  I am really happy with the firmer ride.  Now for the questions:

1.  This lift was supposed to be 2” it really was only 1.5” which I expected after reading else where of someone else installing same kit.  I did not  get the Panhard rod / track bar relocating bracket or the t-case lowering kit.   Thinking I wouldn’t get the vibes at 1.5” lift.   Now  at a full lock turn in a parking lot I can feel the u-joints wobbling  “if “ I have a lot of throttle applied.  Also  a slight vibration  at  full throttle  at  4000+RPM.  During normal driving even up to 75mph  I get no vibration.  Should I go ahead and lower the T-case?  This is not going to be a “real  rockcrarwler.  Am I over stressing the u-joints as they are?

2.  I’ve added at  transmission  temp gauge to the center console.   I haven’t  installed the sending unit yet in the pan.    On other vehicles I’ve just installed a drain plug kit  and ran the sending unit  in as the plug.  Seems like it is a shallow pan and there might not  be enough room in the pan for it.  Have any of you done this and have any hints?

3.  When  I drop the transmission pan to do the above I will be servicing it at the same time.  I see in the manual that they show a weird extension to the inch pound torque wrench used to adjust bands.  Can it be done without that  specialized extension,  using  my  ¼ drive torque wrench?

4.  Can the stock grayish rubber fender flares be made to look better?  Using  a Armorall type product didn’t seem to help.

5.  I am used to fuel injected engines starting almost instantly after turning the key.  This one always takes 3-4  seconds before lighting off.  On second try it will light instantly.  I’ve tried pausing at the “on” position to let the fuel pump prime, it makes no difference. Is this normal?   There is no replaceable fuel  filter to change on this year model.  Is this normal?

6.  Can you buy shorter door limiting straps?  My doors go 90 degrees before straps tightens.

Thanks in advance for any hints you can give me.  This Jeep is a fun maching to work on so far.

Bilgewiper

i can help with 4 and 5. with number 4, welcome to owning a 4.0 its just how it act both my parents drive wranglers, i had a cherokee and so did my brother they all did/do it.

5. try a product called "back to black" its at parts stores

Thanks Jeep J20.  I'll go in search of Back to Black.  Also good to hear other Wranglers do the cranking thing.   

i can help with number 6

go to this site http://www.4wd.com/newsite/search/default.asp and type in adjustable door strap in the search bar and you can buy them cheap for lke 8 bucks

you only need a t-case lowering kit when you go 3 inche's or higher,the reason for the wobble is you are going slow and have the wheels turned all the way,no mattle if it was stock when you apply alot of throttle you will feel it want to jump.its s short wheelbase 4wd,comes with the package.

i also have an auto with a aux tranny cooler,the bands can only be adjusted with the inch pound torque wrench,they are tricky and need the speical tool,and the pans are shallow,you will have to get a rock-ready pan with a drain plug in it to install a meter,they also allow 2 more quarts for extra cooling.

as for starting its normal,but a new cap, rotor,plugs and wires wouldent hurt.there is no fuel filter on 97 to present models,its all part of the sending unit in the tank,moreless a extra strainer.

as the other guy said,its called "mothers back to black"in a red squeeze bottle.you can get it at wal-mart

hope you enjoy your jeep,hope you dont have any other hobbys,because this one's gonna empty your wallet with mod after mod.good luck

if you want a little more lift try coil spacers

1. one thing to remember, a transfere case drop will stress the front shaft more. I've had a couple go bad on my stock jeep with less miles, only one rear u joit failure.

The rear drive shaft doesn't care were your steering wheels are pointed, thats something else.
I'm not sure you full throttle thing isn't something else either.

4. I've thought a layer of the role on bedliner stuff might work, but haven't tried it.

Without buying anything, try twisting your door limiting straps 2x - then secure it. That should shorten and tighten them up!    

Wow, thanks for all the response.  I'll twist my straps to start with.  Then check on the larger trans oil pan.  I put new platinum plugs in which seems to make the engine run smoother.  I have yet to do wires and cap.  In all honesty I doubt I ran it at wide open throttle above 4000 rpm before I switched springs to see if there was any vibrations.  Every thing is so smooth at "normal" use speeds that I am thinking it wasn't caused by the slight raise in height.  I might be overly sensitive but it seems when I take off from a standstill even going straight that there might be a little wobble like over-angled u-joints for only the first few revolutions of the driveshaft.  I had my wife drive it and I followed in another car to see if it was offtracking or wheels bent/etc but everything "looked" perfect.   Spent a few hours out today in it with my 10 year old son doing a few wimpy hillclimbs and mudholes.  It was a blast!   As a newbie I forgot to have the windows up while spinning thru the mudholes.  Got some dirtclods on the dash, me, and everywhere else........such fun!!!!!   

you could also try putting a new polyurathane(bad spelling)transmission mount in.that couldbe the slight wobble from take off.ya never know could fix it,  

poly mounts are harder than OEM, so they transmit more vibes.

new U joints might help if they were marginal before. they make high angle ofset u joints now.

one way to test to see in the lift is causing the problems; put a lot of weight in the back.

Good idea......I'll throw some fat friends in the back.  Oh, wait I'm the fat guy............maybe I'll let somone else drive and I'll sit in the back with some bags of concrete! (good thing I took measurement of ride height before installing lift.....i'll just get it back down to that height)  

I just  layed under it and checked u-joints.....no detectable movement.  With all my strength I can wiggle the tailshaft of the transmission up and down about 3/8-1/2" does that sound ok?  There has to be "some" give in those/that mount right?   

it shouldent be like that.it should take a prybar to get it to move up and down.and ploy mounts are harder and took out my vibe on my old yj,i didnt want rubber moving around so i went with the harder one and it cut it in half.with the miles on the jeep,you should just replace it so you know its a new part down there.it should move side to side but very minimal.its a cheap part and easy to put in.  

Thanks, since I have to be under it servicing the trans I'll definantly be double checking that mount. 

"i also have an auto with a aux tranny cooler,the bands can only be adjusted with the inch pound torque wrench,they are tricky and need the speical tool" 

So any ideas on where to get the special tool (bent extension)?  I already have a inch pound torque wrench

Thanks