mud.....giles.......Need help......front pinion

I am trying to replace the front pinion seal. I have unbolted the 4 small bolts and two half-moon looking clips and have removed the retaining clips that hold the u-joint on. I can't get the universal out to get at the pinion nut....What am I doing wrong and what do I need to do next???? Thanks!!!!!  
I am awesome at breaking stuff....fixing it is another story!

I'm guessing you're working on a TJ Dana 30?

The TJ Dana 30 uses a crush sleeve to set the pinion bearing pre-load. If you remove the pinion nut, you are impacting the bearing pre-load. You should probably not replace your pinion seal if you don't have a dial-type inch-pound torque wrench.

Before you remove the pinion nut, you must use the inch-pound wrench to measure the rotational force required to spin the pinion. It's best to do this with the front wheels removed.

Then, after you replace the seal, you can torque the pinion nut to acheive the same inlb spec (+ 5 additional inlbs) as it was before you removed the pinion nut.

Also, you must use a new pinion nut. They are a one-time use nut.

The pinion nut is torqued at least 160 ftlb. That is considered minimum torque. Then you increase the torque in 5 ftlb increments until the proper inlb rotational force is achieved. That's a lot of torque and requires a big torque wrench. It is also very helpful to have a yoke holding tool while torqueing the pinion nut. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH TO RETORQUE THE PINION NUT! You must use both an inlb and a ftlb torque wrench to set the proper pinion bearing pre-load and the correct pinion nut torque.

This iterative torqueing process is only used for diffs that use a crush sleeve. That includes the TJ Dana 30 front and rear Dana 35. But doesn't include the hi-pinion front Dana 30 in an XJ/YJ or any of the Dana 44's. Those can have a new pinion nut just torqued to spec after replacing the seal.

As far as your question, just tap on the u-joint caps with a brass hammer.

Here's a pic of a yoke holding tool I made from a piece of 1" box tubing, and a dial type inch-pound torque wrench.

 

Jeez Giles is there anything you DON'T know the answer to??!!  
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www.harrysituations.com

My wife thinks there are lots of things I don't know... or don't do. Oh, I don't know, I get confused.  

thanks...I have the in/lb gauge as well as a ft/lb gauge....this sob universal will not give....I should be able to drive up a cliff as tight as this thing is...LOL! Once I pull all this out..should I go ahead and replace the crush sleeve and the inner pinion seal as well(a TIMEKEN rebuild kit is available form o'reiley's with all the parts) or can I get away with just the pinion seal and torque the pinion nut to spec. I have a leaking seal....gear oil dropping 10 drops or so a night...also a shuddering effect when I take off on anything that is not level. My ball joints ant tie rod and ends are new......so will this help or will the entire kit be better...... I am done for the night...Tequila for now....


Thanks for info!!!!  
I am awesome at breaking stuff....fixing it is another story!

You only need a new pinion nut and a new seal.

Maybe there is something tweaked with your yoke? Use a pry bar or large screwdriver and pry against the cross while you tap the sides of the u-joint caps with a brass hammer. The u-joint caps slide out away from the center of the cross over time. Tap them back towards the center of the cross to loosen them up a little in the yoke. Use a brass punch if you can't get at them with a brass hammer.

Your inch pound wrench has to be a dial type like the one in the pic I posted. A beam type might not be precise enough and a clicker won't work at all.

The rotational force will only be in the 10-30 inlb range.

Make sure your brake calipers aren't hanging on your rotors. Compress the piston a little, like you do for a brake job, if they are. This will ensure a good rotational torque reading.  

ftgiles are you a mechanic? just curious because you know a lot and are very helpful, mabey we can talk cappa into giving you your own colom in the mag!  
"WHEN IN DOUBT TACH IT OUT!"

also im leaking too, is the crush sleeve a nut also? or does it have a spot for a wrench to fit into, like a spanner wrench?  
"WHEN IN DOUBT TACH IT OUT!"

The "Crush Sleeve" or "Collapsible Spacer" is just a spacer on the pinion shaft between the inner and outer pinion bearings. As you tighten the pinion nut more and more, the Collapsible Spacer starts to collapse. This forces the cone shaped inner and outer bearings to be closer together, and therefore tighter. That's called pre-load.

As you rotate the pinion yoke, using the inch pound torque wrench on the pinion nut, you can measure the resistance. If you increase the torque on the pinion nut, which requires holding the yoke with a yoke holding tool, the resistance to rotate the pinion will increase. You have to increase the torque on the nut a little, using the foot pound wrench, and then measure the rotational resistance with the inch pound wrench, and then torque a little more until you get the right resistance (pre-load).


This is what they look like:



Item number 4 in THIS drawing.  

well, I see theres nothing I can add here.. lol

if it helps any, changing the sleeve requires removing the axles, carrier and pinion....  
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