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Posted: 10/06/08 12:24 AM
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hi guys i want to put a new engine to my jeep comanche... and i don't know wath engine its better... the golen 4.6 stroker or hesco 4.7 or 4.9
give me tips pls!
thanks!
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ftgiles
Guru
| Posts: 1293
| Joined: 05/08
Posted: 10/06/08 06:22 AM
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Titan is another popular stroker.
Here's what I think is important.
Stroker long blocks seem to sell for between $2300 and $4000. For these prices, it's a pretty basic engine rebuild.
The more expensive engines have more machine work done to them. Since there is a mismatch of parts going into a stroker, all the rotating parts should be balanced together. They need to be spun, not just weighed.
The cheapest way to build a stroker is to use the 258 crank and 258 rods mounted on the 4.0L pistons. This combination produces too high of compression ratio and the pistons don't travel to the top of the bore.
Not all 258 cranks are the same either. There is a 4 counterweight and 12 counterweight. 12 is better, stronger and smoother running.
Short rod vs long rod and custom pistons. This is where the money gets spent. This determines your compression ratio.
I would highly recommend long rod (4.0) with custom pistons as opposed to short rod (258) and standard pistons (4.0).
This gives you the opportunity to set your compression ratio. You want to stay around 9.4 for premium and 8.8 for regular fuel.
If you go the cheap, short rod standard piston route, and you mill the block to acheive zero TDC piston travel, you'll end up with a compression ratio of 10.0 or greater. Too high for pump gas in my opinion.
Also, if the compression is lower, you can use a shorter duration dual pattern cam (190/200 est) for more low rev torque.
There are two compression ratios. Static and Dynamic.
Static is basic. How much does the piston displace and what's the combustion chamber volume, including piston top design.
Dynamic is what's actually happening when the motor is running, and that's what is important. The cam affects the compression ratio. If the valves close sooner, higher compression results, and more low rev torque. If the valves close later, lower compression results, and more high rev hp. For a Jeep, you don't want the compression ratio brought down with a "big" cam.
Not all 4.0L blocks are the same. Some years are thicker. Not all 4.0L heads are the same. '97 &'98 are better flowing. Combing the '97-'98 head with a '99 or newer intake manifold makes a hp difference.
So, here's the important questions. How many counterweights? What's the dynamic compression ratio? Long rod or short? All rotating parts balanced?
Does the price include exchange? Your existing motor may be worth more sold to a needy Jeep guy than used as an exchange.
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ftgiles
Guru
| Posts: 1293
| Joined: 05/08
Posted: 10/06/08 06:34 AM
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I'm guessing you're also not starting with the best injection system. You didn't say what year. Most stroker data is for the Chrysler injection systems.
'87-'90 was RENIX. '91-'95 was Chrysler with 39psi fuel pump and small injectors. '96-'06 was Chrysler with 49psi fuel pump and large injectors.
You'll want to increase your fuel pressure and use larger injectors. HESCO sells a regulator for your RENIX fuel pump.
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Posted: 10/06/08 09:32 AM
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how much hp its the titan 4.6? did u know thath because i'm watching thath in the web site and i can't see the HP
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ftgiles
Guru
| Posts: 1293
| Joined: 05/08
Posted: 10/06/08 11:21 AM
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Don't be too concerned about hp. You'll get lots of hp increase with any stroker.
You want something that runs well and is suited for a Jeep. Low rev torque that is produced from 1500 rpm through 4000 rpm. That's what you want for a Jeep.
HP and torque for any particular displacement is a function of compression ratio and cam selection. Those should be your choices not the engine builder. The engine builder can recommend things that work well together but you should choose based on what you're trying to acheive.
Low end torque is at the expense of high end hp, and vice versa. You can have one or the other or a compromise of both. So, it depends on what you want. Any engine builder can give you the options.
For me, I want smooth running and low end torque with no pinging. That's under 9.0 compression and a mild cam in the 190/200 degree range. This motor build would be about 240hp and 310 ft lbs. of torque with 90% of the torque available from 2000-4000 rpm.
So, to answer your question, you decide based on the cam and compression ratio.
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Posted: 10/06/08 10:36 PM
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mm don't understand about thath :S just wich one u recomended
titan... golen.. or hesco xD i need study thaht
thank you =))
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TexAcoon
New User
| Posts: 1
| Joined: 11/08
Posted: 11/03/08 12:30 PM
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I'm kind of in the same boat .. I have an '82 Jeep CJ5 with the 258 and 4spd. Purchased an '88 FI 4.0L with automatic transmission and transfer case.
For starters I would like to have a stroked engine ..
But not sure what is the easiest and most practical way of going. I believe that titan... golen.. or hesco are a bit over priced when you already have the majority of the components other than buying new pistons for the engine ..
That's not a problem.. It's the cost of the blasted rods and crank that turn me off ..
The item for discussion is "Whats the best cam" to make this all marry up like it should being able to get good performance both on the road and off..
I'm not going for world record rock climbing competitions by no means, but do like rolling around the trails, dunes when camping out and would like that little HP/Torque.
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igeeper
New User
| Posts: 9
| Joined: 11/08
Posted: 11/03/08 02:03 PM
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I'd stick with factory stuff every time, forget a custom engine. If you want more power, put a V8 in your comanche or a better 6 cyl. It will run better, you can get parts at AutoZone or Kragen any day of the week, and reliability problems won't curse you all the time. You won't need custom tunning or a day on a dyno to tune it. Plus, the cost of a V8 from a salvage will be about the same. That's not only what I'd suggest, it's also what I did. 1995 Firebird LT1 V8 in a 1992 XJ, and it's California smog certified.
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ftgiles
Guru
| Posts: 1293
| Joined: 05/08
Posted: 11/03/08 02:08 PM
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You want to use the 4.0L rods ("long rods") and cutsom forged pistons. This is the only way to create the propper quench height and a compression ratio that won't ping all over the place and deliver the most low end torque. That's why you want long rods, more torque.
You want a compression ratio between 9 and 9.5.
If you use stock cast pistons (less expensive) and the 258 "short rods" in order to control your compression ratio, you will loose the low end torque created by the longer 4.0L rods. Less important, the quench won't be optimal and there will be a ledge because the pistons will not quite travel to the top of the cylinder. This will produce a less smooth running engine.
Here the build you want:
Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods Keith-Black Silvolite UEM-KB944 +0.060" bore forged pistons 9.5:1 CR Crane #750501 192/204 degree camshaft Mill block deck 0.020" Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket 0.051" quench height Accel 26lb/hr injectors with adjustable FPR or MAP adjuster 240-250hp and 310ft. lbs.
Hesco will sell you all the above stuff. Call them and talk to them. They are great help.
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Posted: 11/05/08 02:41 PM
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thanks for everybody now i know a little bit more than before and i think i'm going to put a 6cyl but with more power than 4.0 thank you
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Posted: 11/08/08 01:23 AM
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guys wath u think about the land rover 4.5 v6 stroker?? anybody know some about it? i saw a video of it and its a bad ass
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