I am going through the engine part of my restore of a 1985 CJ7.  Engine is in and a few detailes with carburation need to be worked out.  My immmediate problem is electrical.  I have looked at the wiring diagram in my Chilton's book and believe my problem is with a thing called "malfunction switch".  I want to try to replace this but have no idea what it looks like and if this is a quick and easy solution or very involved.  Any help would be appreciated.  

Probably not enough info in my previous post for help.  The problem is with the parking lamp/turn signals on the front of the jeep below the headlights.  Here are the symtoms:  left turn signal switch engaged - no light from the front and side, rear and dash indicator steady illumination; right turn signal switch engaged - all lights work fine;  hazzards engaged - all lights work and flash except the right front which does not work at all; headlights on right front is off, left front is on and the turn signal indicator light on the dash is on and steady.  Power is getting to all of the lights as they work at some time or another just not at the right time and in the right manner.  Hopefully a better description of the problem may get some help.  Thanks!  

You have two distinct circuits. The lighting circuit and the flash circuit.

Try to work on the circuits indipendant of each other.

The lighting circuit is easy. First, establish if the problem is a wiring fault or a switch fault. Do this by disconnecting the wiring socket from the headlight switch. Supply voltage, using a jumper wire to the individual pins in the socket. Keep in mind that some pins may be ground and some may be positive. Use your schematic to help you identify the fucntion of each wire. Use your voltage meter to make sure that there is 12v comming into the socket on the correct pin and use this pin to jumper from.

Don't move on until you have figured out for SURE what each wire does AND it tests out.

By supplying voltage using a jumper wire to the individule pins, you'll know if there is a faulty wire that needs to be chased down. If everything works, the problem is in the switch. The fault can be the bulb socket, the wire, a fusable link, or a fuse.

It is usually better to probe the bulb socket with your volt meter than using the light bulb for a tester. Also, an unfolded paper clip makes a nice probe to probe the sockets with. Radio Shack sells little test leads with alegator clips on both ends. Very handy.

If the problem is in the switch, you might be able to test the switch with your test meter to figure out the problem and repair the switch. Or buy a new switch.

The flasher curcuit is harder. There are several switches that need to be isolated and each one needs to be isolated in order to find out if the problem is the wiring or a switch.

Start with the pigtail coming from the turn signal switch running down the steering column. Unplug the pigtail to start your testing. You can test the switch using one half of the pigtail connection, or the wiring using the other half of the pigtail connection.

Remove the flasher from the fuse panel and jumper across the flasher socket in order to remove the flasher from the testing process.

There is also a brake pedal switch that back feeds power into the turn signal switch. Isolate that switch and test that wiring as well.

The hazzard switch is only mechanical. It pushes down the same tabs as when the turn signal lever is applied.

The turn signal switch is located behind the steering wheel. It consists of a bunch of plastic and copper pieces that wear out. You have to remove the steering wheel and dust cover to gain access. You'll need a steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel.

If it's a tilt column, the wires can be boken because of the tilt action, so check that also.