Hello,
Im looking to put 35 inch tires in my jeep and was trying to figure out whether to go with 4inch or 6inch lift. What do you guys think? Second of all, is their much of a difference in ride between both of those lifts? I do alot of highway driving so Im just wondering for those purposes.  Also is it true that when you get a rock crawler suspension kit that its rough on the road? Lastly, what brands do you guys recommend? I was looking at the rough country 6 inch and the superlift 6 inch rock crawler. What do you guys think of those? Your help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ralph  

what type of jeep you have and your goals?  

Three to four inches max for a short arm lift. Six is too tall, and would need to be a long arm for sure.

Rubicon Express or Nth Degree from American
Expedition Vehicls are the long arm leaders for Jeeps that drive on the street better than stock, and also have great off-road abilities.  

I have a 99 jeep wrangler. My goals are just to have some clearance for 35s and to be able to have it as daily driver since i make many highway trips. Therefore, Im asking whether to go with the 4 or 6 inch. do you guys think superlift or rough country are any good?  

What kind of budget are you working with?

Be specific as to which Superlift or Rough Country lift your considering.  

32" or 33" tires $200 ea
Wheels $125 ea

2"-3" lift (springs, shocks, track bars front & rear, swaybar links, bump stops) $800-$1000 for cheapo spring and shocks you won't like. $1200 for springs and shocks you will like.

$2500 total for something that will work well for a daily driver.

If you lift your jeep over 3.5" with any short arm kit, you won't want to drive it on the street anymore. 4" short arm kits don't address the things that need to be addressed for that lift height. And drive like it too. Almost nobody lifts their TJ 4" and does not end up either addressing the issues (read money) or wishing they had just done a 2"-3" lift.

It is very expensive to lift your jeep over 3.5" and have it drive correctly.

First off 35's are a big tire and weigh a lot. More than what the jeep is designed for. Which just by themselves create undesirable road manners. So, 35's for the street is just vanity.

Without fender work, 35's won't fit with less than a 4" lift. In order to drive nice on the street, that will be a long arm lift.

Long arm lifts cost between $3000-$4000. Tires cost more also, say $250 each.

So for 35's that drive nice on the street, $5500.

$2500 vs $5500 to step up from 33's to 35's.

Regardless of your tire choice, you'll also need to re-gear. Gears $300. Install kits $150. Installation $600-$800.

Add $1100-$1400 for gears to the $2500 for 32's or 33's and a short arm kit, that's $3900.

For 35's and a long arm kit $5500, plus gears $6900.

These are the minimums for something that will drive nice on the street. If you ignore these minimums, you'll be sacrificing street manners for vanity.

Now lets talk about the axles that won't hold up to 35's if you go off road'n...  

So what do you think of the superlift 6 inch rockrunner kit? Is it any good?  

Are you refering to the long arm? If so, go with the Nth or RE. They are widely regarded as the best. You won't be sorry with either. 6" is too much. Stick to 4.5". 35's will work with either the 4.5 RE or 4.5 Nth.

If you're talking the 6" short arm, you'll be very sorry!  

Why tho? Why not short arm? Im sorry for asking so many questions. What does the long arm do differently? And also does anybody recommend the 6 inch super lift rockrunner kit?  

i wil let ftgiles answer this after me, but the reason you dont want a short arm kit over 3 inches is your control arm geometry, trust what ftgiles tells you he has been through this stuff you cannot cut corners when it comes to this stuff if you go over 3 inches with a short arm more than likely you will be sorry and that is a fact. if you go over that your control arm angles will be more vertical instead of horizonal like they should be for a good ride and road manner. if you go long arm your angles will be fixed.  

Arms travel in an arc. The longer the arm, the more gentle the arc. The more gentle the arc, the less affect the arms movement will have on the suspension geometry.

This also holds true for a shorter arm that is level. Small movements in a level short arm doesn't affect suspension geometry very much.

The ideal suspension geometry should be at normal ride height. As the ride height chages, the geometry gets worse. That means drivability suffers.

The pricing that I listed above did not include any installation for the lift. Also, much above 3" of lift will also require an SYE. So, add in another $500 for the SYE and $500-$1000 for lift install if your not going to do it yourself.

A couple inches in tire size, 32 vs. 35, more than doubles the costs.

That's why I asked about your budget??  

Ok,I just want to make sure you guys know that im not trying to disaggree in any way. Im just asking for the reasons because i was a bit confused. Anyhow, so basically a regular 6 inch suspension would ride bad even if you put the new sye and rear cv drive shaft?  

oh and yeah im very unsure about my budget. I plan on installing everything myself tho.  I found this superlift rockrunner 6inch kit for 1690 on sale from 2150 but its not long arm. therefore i would need to install the rear cv shaft and new sye  

what do you guys think of that? should i just drop down to a 4inch  

with the short arm radius the higher ya get the steeper the angle of the arms are plus a lessor mount of down travel. it's a trade off for absorbing jumps or being able to reach the ground over an obstacle,
even the short 2" spacer lifts with stock lower arms and 2.5 - 6" short arm kits all have the same length arms and reach as far as the arms allow with the correct length shocks.
the 6" short arm is just a unsettling feeling for me to drive on, both tipsy and jarring.

the sye is realisticly is a good idea/needed for all of the lifts long or short over 2.5"