i have a '00 TJ with 4in lift 33s and 4.88 gears. it seems like everytime i wheel, the pinion nut on the front comes loose and the yoke rattles around. i pulled it apart twice and hit with my 1/2 impact but it still comes loose. anyone have this happen before? whats the fix? any help would be great thanks  

There is a crush sleeve that sets the pinion bearing preload. Using the impact on it is not the thing to do.

It sounds like you need at least a new crush sleeve and maybe the bearings are shot on the pinion.  

where can i get more info on fixing it?  

Normally, when you remove the pinion nut to change the pinion seal or crush sleeve, you use an inch pound torque wrench to turn the pinion before you remove the pinion nut. This torque setting is used to re-torque the pinion nut after replacing the seal.

So, this will be less precise than it should be.

The bearing preload is different for new bearings than with used bearings. New bearings should be 15-30 inch pounds of resistance to rotate the pinion. Old bearing, 10-20 inch pounds.

Now, these torque settings are taken without the axles installed. With the axles installed it will be more, but how much, I don't know. Certainly you'll at least want to remove the wheels.

You must use a new nut. It is a one time use nut.

The crush sleeve is behind the bearing. So, remove the nut, washer, yoke and seal. With a pick tool carfully slide out the bearing. Now remove the crush sleeve.

Install new crush sleeve, bearing and then a new seal. Next the yoke, washer and new nut. Torque the nut to 160 foot pounds. This will require a tool to hold the pinion. 160 foot pounds is a lot and requires a big torque wrench. Most torque wrenches are smaller.

This is where the pre-load comes in. Use your inch pound wrench to rotate the pinion. If not enough resistance, torque the pinion nut in 5 foot pound increments until the propper pre-load is acheived.

Take note that there are two torque wrenches required, foot pound and inch pound. Also, a special or homemade wrench to hold the yoke.

The inch pound preload amount is something you'll have to decide. If you remove the axles, 10-15 inch pounds. If you don't remove the axles, maybe 20-25 inch pounds. But I don't know.

Maybe Mudb8 can advise.  

MAKE SURE TO USE LOC TITE.  I prefer red on my yokes. Ive seen really bad things happen when it comes loose.  

Thread locker isn't necessary. The nut is a locking nut and should only be used once. Reusing the nut is why people have problems.

It may make the "process" of getting the preload set correctly more difficult. You don't want the threadlocker hardening while you're still adjusting the preload.  

sounds easy enough. thanks for your help everyone  

I just installed new ring and pinion gears and bearings on my '03 Rubicon. I would like to know what the procedure is for tightening the pinion nut. It is a shimmed pinion not a crush collar. I was told to torque it to like 200-250 ft lbs. But if I tighten down to 200 ft lbs it feels tight and does not want to move freely with the tires and breaks off and the axle shaft still in. So, do you tighten it down tight enough that you have a little resistance yet it still moves freely? Suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.  

Who installed the gears?

As part of the setup, the pinion nut should be torqued to verify shim pack thickness and gear contact pattern. Then after everything is done, a new pinion nut is torqued 160-200 foot pounds.

There is still the need to measure pinion bearing preload with shim packs.  

So once I have torqued the pinion nut down to 160-200 ft lbs I put the inch lbs torque wrench on the nut and it should not rotate the yoke until the wrench clicks at a set amount inch lbs?  

Are the gears already setup and you're just replacing the seal or the yoke?

In order to answer the question I have to know what your working on.

Measuring the preload is done without the carrier installed, and is part of setting up the gears.

Some diffs use a crush sleeve to set the preload and some diffs use shims. Both types need to have the preload set correctly at the time of gear setup.  

What is the right way to set the preload on a new pinion and bearings with shimmes no crush collar? And what if the preload is already set and you just need to torque the nut down?  

The preload is set with shims then. There should be a pinion torque spec for setting the nut on the yoke. After tightening check the amount of force required to spin the pinion alone. Once you have your carrier installed it should take 17 to 19 inlbs usually for free spin without axles. In your manual it should give a listed inlbs for free spin. It is still very important to check your pattern.  

How do you check the force to turn the yoke?  

Click on my name in this post. You will see my e-mail address. Send me an e-mail and I will send you a file that has all the information you need to install gears in the Rubicon Dana 44.

If you don't do all the steps, in the right order, and do them precisely, the gears will just break.