Thats right, you may have the distributor 180 out. Also, is the distributor one tooth off? When you are @ TDC cyl#1 on the compression stroke, the distributor rotor should be just past the pin on the cap, not before. You can index cyl #1 and then watch it pass your mark. Ignition timing is almost always before top dead center.  

well, at 180 off all it'll do is burp, belch and fart...
it wouldn't even start..

one tooth off would require the wires to be one hole off for it to run and get timmed correctly..

do ya have a couple/few plug wires crossed?

I just had to change my cps cause it sometimes wouldn't start. it also would die whenever it felt like it plus ran really rough and like it was hitting the reve limiter at 2500rpm,
it was throwing up the cps code though on mine just not all the time. It got a bunch of muddy water up in the bell housing right before it started acting up ...  

ahhhh, yes section 8d.  Again, thanks so much for that!


I've got somebody (Dad) here this weekend so I'll get him to help make sure I'm correct with TDC tomorrow.  One more time, I'm bound to get it right.....  

If memory serves me correctly, aren't there at least 12 teeth on the distributor gear? If there were 6, then I could see the wires being off. I remember when I was putting my motor back together, had cyl#1 @TDC. When I stuck the distributor back in, the rotor would land in 2 spots, before and after plug wire #1. This was also a brain teaser because the gears have angled teeth, so the rotor turns as your pushing it down to the block.

**I love this!! Not one of my friends know anything . Its nice to be able to chat and bounce ideas off people that actually know whats going on!!!!!  

OK, got it running again.  It must have been on the wrong stroke from TDC.  Unfortunately, it still runs like crap, with misfires on cylinders 3, 5, and 6.  This time I'm sure the distributor is in correctly and all of the ignition stuff is in good shape and hooked up correctly.

I'm running out of ideas, short on patience, and I'm way out of knowledge.  There are still so many "maybes" but I don't know which to chase.  I think I am going to take Fletcher's advice and get a good shop to fully diagnose it.  I am going to go to the local dealer and have them run the VIN and check if there is any recall work to be done and see if they'll flash the computer with the latest and greatest update for the '97.

I'm still open to ideas, so if anyone has something I'm game to give it a shot.  Thanks!  

you were right, wrong stroke.  Fired right up after we reset it at TDC.  Still runs like crap with misfires in 3,5, and 6 cylinders.

I think I'll take your advice on the pro diagnosis.  I've learned a ton over the last couple of weeks but my learning is sucking up a huge amount of time.

Thanks again for your help!  

I don't think the dealer is the best place to go. Find a good shop, develop a relationship with them, they're nice friends to have.

Most of the people at the dealerships nowadays are just kids that don't know a lot. The good guys go to work for good shops. And it's tough to build a relationship with the guys who actually do the work because you never meet them. How many Service Advisor friends do you realy need?

Way to put in the hard work! No one can take what you learned away from you!  

I've been having somewhat of the same problem.  I had misfire with cylinders #2 and #6.  I took it to the shop and they inspected & cleaned the injectors, replaced the plugs, checked and found that compression was low in the same two cylinders.  They removed the head and found carbon build-up in the backs of the valves on these cylinders.  Valves were ground and seated, head was inspected, resurfaced, and the block was checked for cracks and was reassembled.  No problems until two weeks ago I got a P0302 (misfire cyl#2) and it runs like *** until it warms-up, and idles terribly.  If I gave it more than 1/4 to 1/2 throttle cold, it would backfire.  I took it to an engine shop this afternoon for them to take a look at the bottom end.  I'll let you know what happens...  Army Strong!     2002 TJ Wrangler 4.0 64,000 miles.  

So much for the bottom end, turns out that it was a "faulty coil."  After a week in the shop, it was determined that the coil was not producing enough juice.  The story goes that because of the faulty coil, the valves began to build carbon which made the misfire worse.  Head and valve work completed again to remove carbon, a new coil, and $1,000.00 dollars later... I really hope this thing works.  I hate getting hosed for my mechanical inability.. Most of the bill was due to troubleshooting... Good luck man!  

Update and still need some assistance:

I took it to the dealer, and they diagnosed it as a valve problem requiring cylinder head replacement.  I decided to do this myself, and sucessfully replaced the head with a Hesco rebuilt one.  I did the swap in my garage, the manifold bolts were 'fun'.  Also switched to a header instead of the stock exhaust manifold.  

The Jeep started right up and runs well, except I STILL GET THE *&%$^$@! MISFIRES and CEL (Check Engine Light).  The other noticable symptom is a high idle, 800RPM at start up, 1500RPM often when warm, and that drops down to 1100PRM after a couple of seconds.  I can clear the codes and drive it for a bit, but eventually after a couple of short trips the codes and CEL come back.  There is no noticible time the codes/misfires show up (like after high RPMs or restarts etc.)  Thoughts?  

so how do they figure a valve problem warrents a head?
a vavle grind is much cheaper tham a complete head.

did they evev run a compression check? without "bad vavles" was only a guess.

I spose they could be close, a bad cam wont open the valves much and will cause popping and misfiring from some of the trapped exhaust coming through the intake.

maybe pull the valve cover back off and watch the rockers for one or two that have little to no lift compared to the others.  

What are all the diagnostic trouble codes that the computer is throwing out?  

It's throwing the "300" codes.  300 multiple random misfires, 301 misfire cylinder 1 etc.  

It is not uncommon to need head and valve work after prolonged periods of unresolved mis-fire issues. The mis-fire condition contributes to carbon build up which cause wierd combustion and sticky valves. Sometimes the glowing carbon can cause preignition, further complicating the problems.

What did the pistons and the old head and valves look like with regard to carbon build up?  

Have you cleaned your injectors and fuel rail and test them for correct pressure and spray? you sent a couple tanks threw with injector cleaner. this rig set a while things can gum up and be shaken loose pretty quick. also you cleaned your throttle body. how did you clean it? did you take the idle motor and throttle sensor off and clean them out. these will efect you starting and idle. Just things I have had come up while encountering the similiar problems as you.