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 TJ / LJ Suspension and recommendations?
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mudb8-
Moderator
| Posts: 3674
| Joined: 08/07
Posted: 02/04/09
12:11 PM
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more bumpstops keep the tires from rubbing during articulation, not more lift.
I'd steer clear of the 14.5" boggers, run 35" and up 12.5's on 3.5" backspacing.
3.75" will not clear the shock towers with 37's
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Hendu99TJ
New User
| Posts: 7
| Joined: 02/09
Posted: 02/19/09
12:55 PM
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I have read this thread a few times now. At the present time I am running 31x10.5 BFG's on my stock 99' TJ. They rub at full right and left turn.
What I would like to do is give it a more aggressive look and go with 33x12.5 (once the 31's wear down) and a lift. This is a daily driver in the spring and summer months.
If I go with a 2-2.5" lift now and run my 31's on a 15x8 inch rim with a 3.75" backspace, I will no longer hit the lower control arm.
Then next year when I get 33x12.5, I can get a 1" body lift, 1" motor mount lift and 2" bump stop extensions. And it should all work together, correct?
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ftgiles
Addict
| Posts: 2178
| Joined: 05/08
Posted: 02/19/09
02:09 PM
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If you want to just start doing a few little things that will make a big difference, start out with the bump stops, longer shocks, and 8" wide wheels with 4.5" of back spacing.
You don't need less than 4.5" of back spacing to run 12.50 tires and your TJ will steer a little better and there will be less wear and tear on your smallish/problematic unit bearings than with 3.75" of back spacing.
Two inch lower bump stops will keep your tires out of the fenders and protect your new longer shocks from damage because of over compression.
Longer shocks give you more articulation.
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Hendu99TJ
New User
| Posts: 7
| Joined: 02/09
Posted: 02/19/09
08:17 PM
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4.5"of backspace will be enough to clear 12.5s
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mudb8-
Moderator
| Posts: 3674
| Joined: 08/07
Posted: 02/19/09
08:51 PM
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4.5 backspacing is good for 33/12.5's..
35 and up contact the shock tower/spring hanger fully stuffed
****************************************
see me at.. robs4wheeldrive.com
looking for how to info to mod your tj?
check out http://www.stu-offroad.com/index.html
and help support the most helpful jeep site on the i-net...
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Hendu99TJ
New User
| Posts: 7
| Joined: 02/09
Posted: 02/20/09
11:28 AM
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With a 2" lift, 1" body lift and 1" motor mount lift? And of course 2" bumpstops. Will there be anything else I may need 
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mudb8-
Moderator
| Posts: 3674
| Joined: 08/07
Posted: 02/20/09
06:52 PM
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 Hendu99TJ:
With a 2" lift, 1" body lift and 1" motor mount lift? And of course 2" bumpstops. Will there be anything else I may need
bumpstop length will depend on your new shock length...
with the 1" bl, 1" bumptops will about do the trick.
****************************************
see me at.. robs4wheeldrive.com
looking for how to info to mod your tj?
check out http://www.stu-offroad.com/index.html
and help support the most helpful jeep site on the i-net...
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Hendu99TJ
New User
| Posts: 7
| Joined: 02/09
Posted: 02/24/09
02:25 PM
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Are the bumpstops only on the rear of a TJ?
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mudb8-
Moderator
| Posts: 3674
| Joined: 08/07
Posted: 02/24/09
09:44 PM
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front and rear..
****************************************
see me at.. robs4wheeldrive.com
looking for how to info to mod your tj?
check out http://www.stu-offroad.com/index.html
and help support the most helpful jeep site on the i-net...
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Hendu99TJ
New User
| Posts: 7
| Joined: 02/09
Posted: 02/25/09
06:49 AM
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Why do some offer only rear? Are they the same front and rear?
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ftgiles
Addict
| Posts: 2178
| Joined: 05/08
Posted: 02/25/09
07:33 AM
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Some offer none.
Bump stop spacing is custom for each particular setup. It depends on several things. Lift height is not one of them. Tire size, wheel offset, and shock length are what's important in determining bump stop spacing.
Their purpose is to keep the tires out of the fenders and protect the shocks from bottoming out.
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mudb8-
Moderator
| Posts: 3674
| Joined: 08/07
Posted: 02/25/09
10:07 AM
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as a general rule... on the tj's to run 33" tires 2" bumpstops are required. a 1.25" body lift decreases the amount of bumpstop needed for the tires by 1.25".
24-25.5" (2-4.5" kit shock length)long shocks also need 2" bumpstops to keep the shocks from bottoming out. at 27" you need 3" stops. a 1" change in shock length doesn't always translate to a 1" change in bumpstop length, not all shock bodies are the same nor do they have the same amount of travel.
so... ya get a 1.25" bl, level the rake with 1-1.5" BB spacers up front, use 23" long shocks with 1" of bumpstop up front, the rear needs no stops to keep the tires out of the sheetmetal (23" is max length for ther rear without additional bumpstops), and bolt on a set of 33" tires.. , depending on wheel backspace and tire width they may rub the flares while fully stuffed.
you can use stock rubi moabs 5" bs)and run 33x11.5's with no rubbing anywhere.
****************************************
see me at.. robs4wheeldrive.com
looking for how to info to mod your tj?
check out http://www.stu-offroad.com/index.html
and help support the most helpful jeep site on the i-net...
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HANS322
User
| Posts: 64
| Joined: 11/07
Posted: 03/02/09
03:44 PM
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Hey Mud and Ftgiles, got a question for you... I'm getting ready to put a Rubicon Express 3.5" lift on my Rubicon. My question is... I'm looking at buying the adjustable control arms which should i go with, adjustable bottoms or tops? Would I be wrong to buy just the top or bottom sets? I am thinking I could get away with just one set, to help in pinion angle adjustment. Am I spending money on something I don't really need? Thanks for the help
'05 Rubicon, 1.25" JKS Body Lift, 1" Riser motor mounts, 265/75/16 Maxxis Bighorns.
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ftgiles
Addict
| Posts: 2178
| Joined: 05/08
Posted: 03/02/09
04:06 PM
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It makes more sense to get adjustable lowers. The wheel base decreases slightly as you lift, so adjusting the lowers gains back a little wheel base and brings the axle back close to its original position relative to steering and track bar.
Both caster and pinion are adjusted together so there will be a comprise to both settings. You want your caster to be as close to 4 degrees as posible while keeping your pinion angle close to zero. The front driveshaft will start to vibrate as you get further from a zero degree pinion angle.
If you can't get enough caster and your front drive shaft is starting to vibrate, the next solution would be offset ball joints. They are a liitle expensive at about $120 each.
I think Rusty's has the best adjustable lowers for about $175/pr.
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HANS322
User
| Posts: 64
| Joined: 11/07
Posted: 03/02/09
04:11 PM
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Man, i knew you would be able to help, now you talked about the front, would you do the same with the rear, or should I get both upper and lower adjustable. I have the 1" Riser Motor mounts, do you think I will have any vib problems if I left the stock control arms in place? I plan on adding a Double Cardon drive shaft also.
'05 Rubicon, 1.25" JKS Body Lift, 1" Riser motor mounts, 265/75/16 Maxxis Bighorns.
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