Im getting ready to build my skidplate for my cj7. With a 350 sbc, th 400, dana 300 underneath I was wondering if I have to keep the engine and powertrain level to the ground? It has a bit of sag in it now and gives a decent driveline angle. Or should I just tuck it in and get cv driveshafts. Also, for the skidplate thing what is the strongest way to keep (welding tech help)it all from breaking off on me.

anyhelp appreciated
blade  

level is best, you can get by with a little angle,

I'd opt for level and cv's to tuck it all up for more clearance.  

After taking into account, front axle to oil pan clearance, fan to radiator clearance, hood clearance, steering shaft clearance, tunnel clearance, distributor clearance, and driveline angles both front and rear, the question of drivtrain angle will be answered.

When figuring drivshaft angle remember droop not just ride height. Giving up a little in center skid ground clearance in order to have u-joints that don't exceed their working angle capacity under full droop is a good compromise. I'd rather have some extra scrars on my belly than a broken or over worked u-joint.

For cross member/skid design, try to favor slit, heat, bend and gusset as opposed to cut and weld.  

Another thing about u-joint angles. A single u-joint can operate at 15 degrees max. A double-cardin (CV) joint can operate at 22 degrees max.

While a cv type shaft will cut the operating angle in half, it wont double the max operating angle.

CV shafts allow you to run your pinion at a different angle than your trans (drivetrain) angle, and is not the cure-all for large drive shaft angles, although it will help some.  

here's the deal, we're talking about a cj7 with a th400, one of the longest trannies, if we have a good angle now without cv's, then it's teling me there's not much lift. and if yer gonna goto all the trouble to build a skid, that says it not a pavement princess, it needs to be as level as you can get it for what you want it to do. droopy skids look like crap and are even worse when yer out there with a handyman trying to get out of eveyone else's way on a trail.

so. tuck it up as much as it can go taking into consideration the angles and whether or not yer building a mbz for some picky yuppy that'll be whinnin about a little road noise inside.  

I agree. As high as possible. But, after taking everything into account, it is more dictated as opposed to decided. I'm not saying only pay attention to drive shaft angle, quite the opposite.

What parameter does drivetrain as level as possible address?

Remember, placing the engine higher also helps with drivline angles and does not mean you have to have a belly rubber.

I'm just trying to put all the parameters out there, so that the focus is not just on tuck'n it up. By pay'n attention to all the parameters, it will end up as tight as possible.  

lol, I hear ya.  

Well I got the skidplate built, and since it is going to primarily be a sand and fire road jeep I figured that a little droop is not going to be an issue. I still have 24 inches of clearance with my skidplate. I swapped in fullsize axles 10 bolt front, 14 bolt sf rear and currently running 37 super swamper m-16. 1st jeep ive ever built and only instructions Ive had for building this is flipping through magazines and taking my own twists on it.

Anyways at full droop im getting a 30 degree angle on my driveshaft (stock and Im fixing this cause its to long). And Im running my 14 bolt up at around 15 degrees. And when your talking about parameters they are tight enough already, it is getting frustrating if ill ever get the damn thing done and wondering if ill ever have the thing working properly.

but thanks for the advise any is well appreciated being new to the sport and ill try to get some pictures up on here so you guys can see what is going on in this thing.  

ool got pics?