caster is the reason for the front being kept at the stock angle.. I may need some change though for the 3.5" lift.  

Ok,I bought my jeep wrangler in 1998. It is a 1997 with a 2.5 4 cylinder, it has a swapped in rear dana 44,4.88 gears, a detroit locker, 3.5 RE superflex kit. and a 8274 warn. The 3.5 kit should be fine with your choice of tires. I run 35 inch pro comp  x terrains with the above kit and a 1 inch body lift. Since you are running those narrow tires it makes it easier to get away with less lift.  I never rubbed until I went with wider flares. Skip the flares, they look cool, but make it easier to rub. I know some guys who run only 2 inch spacer lift with a 1 inch body lift with a motor mount lift. The motor mount lift can eliminates the need for a drop kit for the transfer case. Currently I do not have a motor mount lift, yes I run the dropped transfer case. It has worked for me for a decade or so. Probably will upgrade somewhere in the future. If I were you, I would go with the 34/10.5 or a 33/10.5 over the 34/9.5. I had 33/9.5 on a cherokee and feel a little wider is better. Plan on regearing, but trust me a 2.5 is a good little motor and can hang with the big boys on anything but the mud.  

So i have decided to go with this lift and i have some concerns that i hope some one who has dealt with this lift can tell me. I live in Germany right now (military) and we have a garage on base with all the tools and everything at my disposable but i am a bit hesitant to pay one of the mechanics on base here to work on a jeep when they rarely see them. they mostly work on bmw and mercedes (obviously). i have been under my old yj before and done general maintenance (u-joint replacement, etc.), so i'm not completely incompitent with tools, but i have never put on a lift. so my question is, how hard would it be for me to put the lift on myself? I should include that i will not be touching the gears as i have absolutely no experience with them, i'll leave that to the mechanics. any insight appreciated. thanks!  

dude with the 2.5 those tires will kill loads of uphill power.... if you are going that big you need to have some majot hp upgrades or a diffrent engine.  

no sir, horsepower/bolt on upgrades is not the answer to big tires, proper gearing is..  

let me clarify what I meant in that last post. I will be getting new gears put in once I get it lifted, but I will not do the work myself. I was doing reasearch on the gears and it just seems like I would be in over my head. This also being my daily driver, I really can't risk more down time than needed.  

you don't need the sye or a t-case drop, all you need to do is go to a driveshaft specialist and have them weld on a double cardian joint and balance it and you'll be fine. Plus you'll save around $350 unless you like to waste money  

84muddytj:
you don't need the sye or a t-case drop, all you need to do is go to a driveshaft specialist and have them weld on a double cardian joint and balance it and you'll be fine. Plus you'll save around $350 unless you like to waste money

To use the term "save", you would have to get substantially the same thing and pay less for it.

Is not doing something really a savings? Don't put any lift on, you could save even more?

You get a lot more with an SYE than just a Double Cardan Joint. So, here's what your not getting, and not paying for.

Over 50% stronger TC mainshaft. Stock TC mainshaft is a well documented weak spot in an otherwise very stout NP231.

A much stronger tail housing. The stock tailhousing also breaks.

A longer driveshaft. This reduces the operating angle of the u-joint. The strongest u-joint is a straight u-joint. Less operating angle, a stronger, longer lasting u-joint.