I recently took the coil springs and shock mounts off my TJ to upgrade to some coilovers. Everything seems to feel better but I now get a hard bump steer to the left when I get a decent bump or dip. Any info you can throw at me would be great! Thanks!  

A few questions to better help you out.

How much lift? Track bar modifications? Pitman arm change? Steering linkage setup?  

With the coilovers i am looking at 6 to 6.5 inch lift. I have a rubicon express trackbar and a pitman arm too but the pitman arm was the one for up to a 4 inch lift. I havent dont anything to the steering linkage setup....  

You are going to have bump steer unless you drop the track bar the same amount as the dropped pitman arm. Is the track bar pivot dropped below the factory position on the driver side? Simply bolting on an aftermarket track bar does not remedy the issue. The pivot points are still in the same place.

Ideally you wouldn't have 6.5 inches of lift (that's a lot for a TJ), but you do so here are some possible solutions:

1) Keep the track bar where it is. Ditch the drop pitman arm and replace it with a stock one. You will have to upgrade to the Currie tie rods because your stock ones will not allow enough movement. They will bind. This should bring everything in line and there should be a lot less bump steer. Plus you'll have way beefier tie rods. But it still may bind at full droop with that much lift.

2) Drop the track bar pivot on the driver side frame the same amount the dropped pitman arm is.

I kinda lean toward #1 since the stock tie rods are pathetic, especially with the tires you must be running (37-inch or bigger with that lift). But it is the more expensive route.

John  

If you want to get rid of the bump steer with that much lift, you have to address the steering and the track bar issues together.

Like Cappa said, the track bar drop has to stay in sync with the pitman arm drop. Your bump steer is caused by the trac bar and the drag link not being parallel.

Getting them parallel by using Currie's HD stuff and removing the drop pitman arm is a start, but that's a huge angle, on the drag link, to over come. The greater the angle of the drag link, the greater the working length changes in response to a bump.

On a TJ this causes big changes to toe. This puts a lot of stess on other components and then you get death wobble.

Nth Degree has a great TJ front track bar setup. AEV now sells the Nth products again.

It is a solid OEM Grand Cherokee (Beefy) track bar and a drop bracket that extends to the opposite frame rail. This design keeps your original TJ frame mount bracket alive. Other people sell drop brackets for the track bar, but they increase the leverage on the stock bracket (bad). The brace is adjustable for 3", 4.5", or 6" of lift but the track bar is solid. Solid track bars are better than adjustable track bars. This setup also gets rid of the TJ ball joint on the track bar (good).

This brace and track bar cost $250. The matching pitman arm is $65. The Currie HD steering is $400.

This will not only fix your steering geometry, but also your suspension geometry. And will center your axle where it belongs.

The other bad thing about adjustable track bars is they increase in length in order to center your axle. This additional length causes your front suspension to travel left to right in an even bigger arc. This can lead to "missing" the bump stops (bad).

So, after all this, do BOTH. It's only an extra $300.  

Thanks for the reply! I have a question though...What if I lower the coilovers height about an inch, replace the drop pitman arm with the original , and go with the Currie Currectlync system, do you believe this could help?

One more thing i would like to mention is that i did this upgrade following an artical JP did with TAG Motorsports foreman Jay Miller it was called "Coil Correction Fixing Up The Factory's Mess."  

That should work. Overall I think you'll have a sturdier set up with fewer issues on the trail.

Cool! Jay's suspension is a little different though. He built his own three link and it's kind of a hodge-podge of different companies parts and custom fabrication.

Hope ya dig the coil-overs.  

Yes. If you address both the track bar and use the Currie stuff it will fix your problems. Just the Currie stuff will improve but not fix your other issues.

Lower is better!

All J Products in Big Bear CA is the best place to get Nth stuff.  

Just a summary.

Your bump steer is caused by the dropped pitman arm.

By replacing the pitman arm with the stock pitman arm, the bump steer issue will be resolved.

But, the stock drag link can not opperate at that great of angle. So, the Currie HD steering is designed to work at a greater angle than stock.

Having a dropped pitman is the right thing to do. But that takes a corresponding track bar change.  

Thanks for your great help guys! Both of you definitely help me understand this issue waaaay better.  

there's another issue the wheel to wheel tie rod helps resolve vs the haltenberger ...  

Your beefy alternatives.

The Currie HD is a "Y" setup (haltenberger) like TJs and Cherokees. It has better ends and is "kicked" a bit to help out with the drag link angle. It causes toe changes.

The wheel to wheel tie rod setup, like YJs, is said to slow steering input because of the "roll over" of the drag link. Rusty's has a good one.

That leaves us with cross over. That seems to have the most following, but is also expensive. OffRoad Only U-turn, Toys by Troy Aluma-flex and Teraflex High Steer to name a few. These setups allow the drag link to be nearly level (good).