Thats right, you may have the distributor 180 out. Also, is the distributor one tooth off? When you are @ TDC cyl#1 on the compression stroke, the distributor rotor should be just past the pin on the cap, not before. You can index cyl #1 and then watch it pass your mark. Ignition timing is almost always before top dead center.  

well, at 180 off all it'll do is burp, belch and fart...
it wouldn't even start..

one tooth off would require the wires to be one hole off for it to run and get timmed correctly..

do ya have a couple/few plug wires crossed?

I just had to change my cps cause it sometimes wouldn't start. it also would die whenever it felt like it plus ran really rough and like it was hitting the reve limiter at 2500rpm,
it was throwing up the cps code though on mine just not all the time. It got a bunch of muddy water up in the bell housing right before it started acting up ...  

ahhhh, yes section 8d.  Again, thanks so much for that!


I've got somebody (Dad) here this weekend so I'll get him to help make sure I'm correct with TDC tomorrow.  One more time, I'm bound to get it right.....  

If memory serves me correctly, aren't there at least 12 teeth on the distributor gear? If there were 6, then I could see the wires being off. I remember when I was putting my motor back together, had cyl#1 @TDC. When I stuck the distributor back in, the rotor would land in 2 spots, before and after plug wire #1. This was also a brain teaser because the gears have angled teeth, so the rotor turns as your pushing it down to the block.

**I love this!! Not one of my friends know anything . Its nice to be able to chat and bounce ideas off people that actually know whats going on!!!!!  

OK, got it running again.  It must have been on the wrong stroke from TDC.  Unfortunately, it still runs like crap, with misfires on cylinders 3, 5, and 6.  This time I'm sure the distributor is in correctly and all of the ignition stuff is in good shape and hooked up correctly.

I'm running out of ideas, short on patience, and I'm way out of knowledge.  There are still so many "maybes" but I don't know which to chase.  I think I am going to take Fletcher's advice and get a good shop to fully diagnose it.  I am going to go to the local dealer and have them run the VIN and check if there is any recall work to be done and see if they'll flash the computer with the latest and greatest update for the '97.

I'm still open to ideas, so if anyone has something I'm game to give it a shot.  Thanks!  

you were right, wrong stroke.  Fired right up after we reset it at TDC.  Still runs like crap with misfires in 3,5, and 6 cylinders.

I think I'll take your advice on the pro diagnosis.  I've learned a ton over the last couple of weeks but my learning is sucking up a huge amount of time.

Thanks again for your help!  

I don't think the dealer is the best place to go. Find a good shop, develop a relationship with them, they're nice friends to have.

Most of the people at the dealerships nowadays are just kids that don't know a lot. The good guys go to work for good shops. And it's tough to build a relationship with the guys who actually do the work because you never meet them. How many Service Advisor friends do you realy need?

Way to put in the hard work! No one can take what you learned away from you!  

I've been having somewhat of the same problem.  I had misfire with cylinders #2 and #6.  I took it to the shop and they inspected & cleaned the injectors, replaced the plugs, checked and found that compression was low in the same two cylinders.  They removed the head and found carbon build-up in the backs of the valves on these cylinders.  Valves were ground and seated, head was inspected, resurfaced, and the block was checked for cracks and was reassembled.  No problems until two weeks ago I got a P0302 (misfire cyl#2) and it runs like *** until it warms-up, and idles terribly.  If I gave it more than 1/4 to 1/2 throttle cold, it would backfire.  I took it to an engine shop this afternoon for them to take a look at the bottom end.  I'll let you know what happens...  Army Strong!     2002 TJ Wrangler 4.0 64,000 miles.  

So much for the bottom end, turns out that it was a "faulty coil."  After a week in the shop, it was determined that the coil was not producing enough juice.  The story goes that because of the faulty coil, the valves began to build carbon which made the misfire worse.  Head and valve work completed again to remove carbon, a new coil, and $1,000.00 dollars later... I really hope this thing works.  I hate getting hosed for my mechanical inability.. Most of the bill was due to troubleshooting... Good luck man!