i just put a 2.25" spacer in the front of the rubicon and a .75" in the rear. it looks perfectly level. i havent got the shocks in yet but i ordered 1-3" of lift shocks. will this help the bottoming out thudd type sound i hear in the rear when i hit a bump?

also at about 45-55 im not really sure cuz it will only do it sometimes i get this horrible horrible uncontrollable wobble in the steering wheel so much i have to slow down. i havent aligned it since the spacers either. i havent straigtened the steering wheel yet but it isnt that far off. what is the cause of the wobble?  

probably just a bad stock stabilizer, replace it with a real one. also check the ball joints and wheel bearings, for severe wobble the stabilizer is a band-aid fix. low tire presure can also cause a wobble in some cases.
for the shocks use replacements for a 3" lift, so it sounds like the one you've got comming willl do the trick. the thud could be the shock reaching its maximun down travel, they aren't really long enough stock as it is.  

the stabilizer isnt bad the jeep has 12k miles on it and never has been offroad. none of this started happening till the spacers. not the tires or pressure or balancing. i doubt the balljoints  and wheel bearings its been babied. i think it has something to do with camber and or caster and maybe the trac bar.  when i take it into get it aligned do i need to take in a camber or caster kit or whatever or is there enough room to let them adjust the stock camber or caster. also could i just get like a 30 dollar trac bar bracket?  

the track bar centers the axle and keeps it there, when the joint is wore it can contribute to a bit of wobble. a bracket wont work on the front with a stock track bar, the zj? or one of the cherokee models has a slightly longer track bar that works for a 2-2.5" lift on a TJ to re-center the axle, I don't remember the specific model, that info along with valuable camber/caster correction information was listed on nthdegree.com, which is no longer available anymore. I've been unable to get it from AEV as of yet, I wish I had copied it and saved it for my own reference,
also the rubicon track bar can be re-bent to accomodate a small lift.

the stock stabilizer even at 12K could be bad or insuficient.
despite how many miles your stock stabilizer has get rid of it and get a real one from the aftermarket manufacturer of your choice.

I would almost bet on a stabilizer controlling your wobble with the stock tires, If it doesn't you have a problem invoving joints and wheel bearings, not the length of the track bar or caster change from 2" spacers.  

it was very hard to get the trac bar bolt back into it after the spacers were installed up front. telling me that maybe it is the trac bar that needs to be longer  

for perfect alignment yes, but it isn't likely causing the wobble. why did you disconnect it to put in spacers?

I put on an adjustable track bar that came with my kit, had it alligned then it developed a nasty wobble, I still had the stock stabilizer at the time, also. I spent 250 bucks on the nth degree solid adjustable, still had the same wobble finally I spent 35 bucks for a Rancho stabilizer.....problem solved, I run 2.5" lift also on 34" tires....this isn't my first tj, the others were on 6" lifts, still running on stock allignment specs, I never left the stabilizer untouched on them. for the rubi I was cutting corners because it hardly had 5,000 miles on it when I started messing with it.  

It may sound dumb, but did you remember to tighten everything you undid to install the spacers? Then double check them a few miles later?

Or is it possible while you had the wheels off you knocked the weights off causing one or more to be out of balance?  

the reason i disconnected the trac bar is that the springs wouldnt come out and definatley not go back in unless i took the trac bar off. i didnt have a spring compressor.

to JP Editor. i did not have to take the tires off becuase i used my uncles hydrolic lift to lift the vehicle off the ground. it was a time saver.

i will try a steering stabilizer.  the new skyjacker shocks came in yesterday so i will have to put them on even tho i thing i bought the wrong size for the front. i bout the 1-3 inch lift and my rubi springs are 1 inch already then i put on the 2.25 spacer thats already bottoming these new ones am i right?  

the trac bar won't keep the springs from coming out, just by unbolting the shocks from the axle, it will drop enough for the stock springs to nearly fall out. even my 2.5" springs unload and flop around with the axle at full droop with my shocks still connected.

your new 1-3" shocks will work fine, I put a set of 3" Rancho 5000's on mine two days ofter it came off the showroom floor to improve the articulation....

they should come short of completely compressed with the axle against the bumpstops, I have shocks listed for a 6" lift to allow the maximun travel for my 2.5" lift, also my bumpstops are longer than those supplied in the kit to accomodate the 34" tires  

i got the shocks on there. they dont bottom out anymore which is great but they dont ride any better which is bad. ive only driven about 10-15 miles on them do they have to break in or settle or something? also how come the skyjackers come sucked in and the stock springs are always pushed out?

i didnt put new bumpstops on it do i need them? when i first did the job i had six inches between both front and back tires and fender flares now i have about 5 1/2 front about 5 3/4 rear have my springs settled from not haveing new bumpstops or have the spacers just settled differently? can i put bumpstops on when the coils are still on or do they have to be removed?  

you won't need the longer bumpstops unless you run with the sway bar disconnected and get over a 32" tire.
the rubber stops will go though the springs without removing them.

the shocks are compressed for packaging, the springs are supported to keep them from settling in the box....I think.

the spacers have probably seated and you may not have the same amount of fuel in the tank. I would think if you took out the stock spacer out of the front and only used the 2.25 spacer it should be about a  half inch or so lower than the rear.

I doubt the shocks wil get any softer untill they go bad. give the bushings time to start flexing.  

ive heard if you dont run bumpstops my springs will start to get lower becuase when i hit big bumps and it has that much room to go the springs start to get shorter, settling as time goes on.  

that would be years of being loaded, I've got a 72 cev that got made into a trailer with stock coils, It sat loaded with scrap metal for over 20 years bottomed out, when I unloaded it, it returned to it original ride height as I remember it.

they won't settle that much, some cheap aftermarket springs may, the shocks generally don't let them bounce that far. the bumpstops, If they get wacked in normal driving just make for a rough ride.  

how much height is the stock isolater in the rear worth? can it be removed with the springs still? as in cutting it out.

how much does a hard top weigh? how much would it bring down the back of my jeep, i have the stock rubicon coils ofcourse.

also will my shocks start performing any better at all with a little wear on them cuz they ride just the same and not better as i planned  

isolater? the 1/8 rubber ring? it keeps the springs from rubbing metal on metal, though it could be removed, the springs will need to unload enough to cut it out, It's easier to remove the springs.
the top is about 150#, so no more than a passenger in the backseat.

I doubt the shocks are gonna soften up, they may a little when the busings get broke in. I had a set of skyjackers at one time, I thought they were a bit stiff also, the Rancho's, though not the best, work great for me and aren't stiff to my standards.