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I need some serious help here  
Redneck1
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 05/07
Posted: 08/04/07
04:58 AM

So here's the history. All of the sudden without warning my jeep quit running. Just stalled while diving. No noises, no nothing. One minute the check engine light came on, and then it just quit. It sat in the parking lot until the next day when it immediately fired up. I live about a mile and a half from where it was and about halfway there it started acting like it wasn't getting any fuel, really hesitating and surging. I did the key on/off trick to get the codes and came up with these:
54: No camshaft signal detected during cranking
12: battery power to PCM disconnected
11: No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking

The dealer and all the books say that the thing doen't have a Camshaft Pos. sensor, so I changed the Throttle pos. sensor in the transmission bell housing, but that didn't work. I take the computer down to Napa to hook it up to their machine and there were 6 codes stored that aren't detectable by turning the key off and on. They are:
P0113: Intake Air sensor Temp voltage too high
P0118: Engine coolant temp sensor voltage too high
P0443 : A shorted or open condition detected in the duty cycle purge solenoid circuit
P0505: A shorted or open sondition detected in one or more of the idle air control motor circuits
P0123: Throttle position sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltage
P1492: Battery temperature sensor input voltage above an acceptable range

I gotta believe that with all the different sensors with many different systems all reading bad, there has to be a common issue, so I had them rebuild my computer, figuring I had gotten it wet or something and it was fried. Replaced the computer, started right up (as it always did when cold) and sure enough, as soon as the engine heats up a ways down the road, it stalls again. Less then 6 months ago I did the plugs, wires, rotor and cap and put in a new battery and everything worked fine. This problem just hit me out of the blue. Can anyone possibly send me in the right direction before I have to (GASP) take it into the shop?  


 
Redneck1
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 05/07
Posted: 08/04/07
05:00 AM

Oh yeah..it's a 97 Wrangler with a 4.0 and auto tranny.  


 
Jp Editor
Administrator | Posts: 474 | Joined: 10/06
Posted: 08/04/07
06:38 AM

Is it possible you have a bad ground(s). Check the power to the fusebox and relays. Perhaps there is corrosion on some terminals. Look for heat-dammaged plugs.  


 
mudb8
User | Posts: 152 | Joined: 07/07
Posted: 08/04/07
04:35 PM

what voltage does the battery have running and with the engine turned off? do you have dual battries, mabey hooked up on accident in a series creating 24 volts. could be as simple as a bad battery.  


These tires were made for muddin and they're gonna throw mud all over you.

 
Redneck1
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 05/07
Posted: 08/15/07
06:06 AM

Only one battery and it's not bad. I would hope not, it's only about 8 months old. Any other ideas?  


 
mudb8
User | Posts: 152 | Joined: 07/07
Posted: 08/15/07
06:59 AM

fuel pump, filter?  


These tires were made for muddin and they're gonna throw mud all over you.

 
woodchipper
User | Posts: 63 | Joined: 06/07
Posted: 08/15/07
07:18 AM

check your voltage at the battery as its running, sounds like overcharging to me, bad voltage regulator,  


 
Redneck1
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 05/07
Posted: 08/25/07
10:11 AM

I'm gonna look into the voltage regulator idea. I started it and I am getting 28.8 volts right away off the battery. In case that's not it...any other ideas? I will update.  


 
Redneck1
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 05/07
Posted: 08/25/07
12:02 PM

Well...took the altenator to Advanced. They tested it and it's fine. Voltage regulator is external....meaning it's regulated by the PCM which I have already had repair and returned. As I mentioned it's giving me 28.8 volts off the battery when running and 25.6 volts with it turned off and the negative cable disconnected. I am completely out of ideas. Unless someone can point me in another direction I guess to the shop it goes.  


 
mudb8-
Moderator | Posts: 3152 | Joined: 08/07
Posted: 08/25/07
11:22 PM

should be around 13.8v unles you're running a 24v system, what voltage does it have running with the battery disconnected?
go back to the voltage regulater idea if it is still putting out 28v's.
at 28.8 you'll blow out every light bulb and headlight, the starter probably cranks it over like there's no compression.
maybe throw in a different battey and then recheck for over charging, the battery could be the problem.  


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Redneck1
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 05/07
Posted: 08/26/07
03:20 AM

Ok, I fully expect and am prepared for each of you to call me an idiot, ha ha. I was sitting there last night stewing over my dilema and the same thought process came to mind. At 28.8 volts everything in the Jeep would blow...lights,fuses, everything. Plus...my in-dash voltmeter was reading within normal limits. When I wake up this morning, it hits me. I had my multimeter set to read AC current, not DC. Set it to DC and it's reading right around 12v. So then I am bouncing around the other ideas people have given me and I can't get past the fuel pump possibility and I remember. There was a night I had stopped by to gas up and left my gas cap off by mistake and didn't realize it until the next afternoon....after it had rained all night and most the day quite heavily. So now I pose this question....could water have gotten into my fuel and subsequently blown my fuel pump? The problem I have with that theory are the OBD codes...so many systems...all pointing to electrical...none of which are fuel related.  


 
mudb8-
Moderator | Posts: 3152 | Joined: 08/07
Posted: 08/26/07
10:45 AM

water in the fuel won't mess up the fuel pump. Everything seems to point to high voltage.  


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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8149649#post8149649

The rally will be on Wednesday May 7th from 4 to 9 pm Eastern Standard Time.
Be there and post up POSITIVE COMMENTS!!

 
woodchipper
User | Posts: 63 | Joined: 06/07
Posted: 08/27/07
10:16 AM

my brother had a 91 chev lumina, it would start right up, you could drive it for about ten min, and it would die, it would not start up untill it cooled off, then after a few mins, it would die again, it turned out to be a hairline crack in the crank poss sensor, as it was cold, it worked fine, as it warmed up, the crack would open up and render the sensor usless, it took a month to find what the *** it was.. then after we fixed it, the fuel punp went out within ten mins. i dont think it was related, but it was part of the story. well i feel sorry for you, but you will find it to be very simple when you do. keep us posted  


 
woodchipper
User | Posts: 63 | Joined: 06/07
Posted: 08/27/07
10:26 AM

you might want to look at your coil, or coils also. not sure on what you have on it, my 91 has one only, my 01 was way differnt. or your distributer, if you have one. im not sure when the changed to the new style  


 
2much
New User | Posts: 7 | Joined: 08/07
Posted: 08/28/07
05:53 AM

it sounds like u have a short somewhere in the wiring.  all the voltages are 2 high and since they are all probably on the same harness they might be sharing a common ground.  if its happening only when ur truck is warm, u might wanna look into the coolant or air sensors.  


 
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